Sunday, March 18, 2007

Child stuff

Maja calls these her 'ballet shoes'. I followed the tutorial for felted mary janes (see sidebar) but minus the strap and minus the felting. Also, I didn't add the 1 cm for the width and the length that you do for the felted slippers. They are made in DK cotton, purple - as requested by the (almost) 4-year old.

Maja kalder disse hendes 'balletsko'. Jeg fulgte instruktionerne for filtede mary janes (se sidebar) men uden stroppen og uden at felte dem. Jeg undlod også at lægge 1 cm til i længde og vidde, som man ellers gør ved de filtede. De er lavet i tykt bomuldsgarn, i lilla, som den næsten 4-årige havde bestilt.

Maja noemt deze haar 'balletschoenen'. Ik volgde de instrukties voor de vervilte mary janes (zie sidebar) maar zonder het bandje en zonder te vilten. Ik heb ook de ekstra 1 cm voor de breedte en de lengte niet meegeteld, zoals je bij de vervilte versie doet. In dik katoen, paars, zoals besteld door de bijna 4-jarige.



Crochet: I also made a small 'Hello Kitty' bag for a 10 year old. It for hanging around your neck. Pattern: here

Hækling:Jeg laved også en lille 'Hello Kitty' taske til en 10-årig. Det er til at hænge om halsen.
Mønster:
her

Haken: Ik maakte ook een klein 'Hallo Kitty' tasje voor een 10 jarige. Voor om de hals.
Patroon
hier

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Saturday, December 02, 2006

Pomatomus fingerless gloves

How to make fingerless gloves off knitty s pomatomus-pattern




These directions can only be used in combination with the original pomatomus sock pattern, to be found here .

Copyright of the sock pattern: Cookie A. (in case you wonder, I checked with her about copyright issues and she gave me her ok. Thanks Cookie!!)
Directions by Rineke - you may use these directions under the same conditions as knitty patterns (see the legal bits on the knitty website here

SIZE
To fit XL womans hands

MATERIALS
1 set of US #0 dpn (2 mm ) directions are given for knitting on 4 dpns (5 dpns or 2 circular needles may be used in stead)
1 skein handpainted sock yarn
3 stitch markers

GAUGE
The fingerless gloves start in exactly the same way as the socks, but obviously, since wrists tend to be less thick than ankles, you’ll need to go down in gauge. Use a thinner yarn than you would do for the socks and go down in needle size to obtain the gauge you would need for fitting gloves.


NOTES
Read the notes of the original pattern. The gloves, are almost entirely knit in the round, the charts are thus read as in the sock pattern.

Binding off is best done in kitchener bind off. It is a drag to do, but the result is absolutely better. Consult your knitting technique books on how to do it (Mine is ‘the knitters book of finishing techniques).

Overall construction

The cuff of the gloves is similar as the cuff of the sock, but shorter - you will only knit the A-chart once (for the sock it is twice). The hand of the glove is like the foot of the sock: half of the originally CO stitches will be knitted in the pomatomus-pattern using the B-chart, the other (slightly reduced) half will be knitted in st.st. Simultaneously a thumb gusset will be knitted on either the left (for the right hand) or right (for the left hand) side of the pomatomus-pattern. The thum gusset is knitted in a k1 tbl, p1 (twisted rib) pattern. When the thumb gusset is large enough, the stitches are put on a help needle and the hand of the glove is continued in roughly half st. st., half pomatomus pattern. The hand is completed by a short twisted rib. The st. of the thumb are continued afterwards in twisted rib pattern for a few rounds.

Directions

Cuff
Start in exactly the same way as for the socks and knit on until you’ve completed the A-chart for the first time.

Hand
Rearrange stitches in the following way:
Right hand:
1st st. of 1st needle becomes the last st. of the 3rd. needle by knitting it k tbl (as in sock pattern). You will now have on your needles: 1st and 2nd needle: 18 st. each., 3rd needle: 36 st.

Left hand:
1st st. of 1st needle becomes the last st. of the 3rd. needle by knitting it k tbl (as in sock pattern). You will now have on your needles: 1st. needle: 36 st, 2nd and 3rd needle: 18 st. each

Continue in the following way:
For the right hand glove:
1. round: k 1st and 2nd needle in st. st., decreasing 5 st. evenly across, 36 st in pattern using chart B (=31 st in st. st., 36 in pomatomus, total of 67 st.)
2. round: start thumb gusset: 1 k tbl, pM, incr. 1 k-wise, pM, k 30, 36 st. acc. to chart B (=32 st. + 36 in pomatomus, total of 68 st)
3. round: 1 k tbl, pM incr. 1 p-wise, 1 k tbl, incr 1 p-wise pM, k30, 36 st. acc. to chart B (+2 st)
4. round: 1 k tbl, pM p1, 1 k tbl, p1, pM, k30, 36 st. acc. to chart B
5. round: 1 k tbl, pM incr. 1 k-wise, p1, k1 tbl, p1, incr 1 k-wise, pM, k30, 36 st. acc. to chart B (+2 st)
Continue knitting the stitches between the markers in twisted rib, the 30 st. in st. st., and the 36 st. acc. to chart B, The first st. of each round is k1 tbl.
Increase 1 st. after the first marker and before the 2nd marker on the following rounds in twisted rib pattern (nr in parenteses are the total of the thum gusset st.):
5th (5)
7th (7)
10th (9)
13th (11)
16th (13)
19th (15)
22 th (17)
25th (19)
28th (21)
31th (23)
33th (25)

34th round: k1 tbl ,25 in twisted rib, k30, 36 acc. chart B,
35th round: k1 tbl, incr. 1 k-wise, arrange the 25 thumb gusset st on a help needle or thread, k30, 36 acc. chart B
36th round: continue with knitting the first 32 in st st. and the last 36 acc. chart B
When completed chart B a second time (this will be round 44), switch to twisted rib pattern for 9 rounds. BO
Arrange the thumb gusset st. on 3 dpn, and knit twisted rib for 9 rounds. BO.




For the left hand glove:
1. round: knit 36 st. in pattern using chart B, remaining st. in st. st., decreasing 5 st. evenly accross. (=36 pomatomus st, 31 st. st., total of 67 st.
2. round: start thumb gusset: knit 36 acc. chart B, k30, place marker, incr. 1 k- wise, place marker, k1 tbl (=36 st + 32 st, total of 68 st.)
3. round: 36 acc. chart B, k30, pM, inc.1 p-wise, k1 tbl, inc 1 pwise, pM, k1 tbl
4. round: 36 acc. chart B, k30, pM, k1 tbl, pM, p1, k1 tbl, p1, pM, k1 tbl
5. round: 36 acc. chart B, k30, pM incr. 1 k-wise, p1, k1 tbl, p1, incr 1 k-wise, pM, 1 k tbl, (+2 st)


Continue knitting the 36 st. acc. to chart B, and the 30 st. in st. st., and the stitches between the markers in twisted rib. The last st. of each round is k1 tbl.
Increase on the rounds as indicated under the right hand glove.

34th round: 36 acc. chart B, k30, 25 in twisted rib, k1 tbl
35th round: 36 acc. chart B, k30, incr. 1 k-wise, arrange the 25 thumb gusset st on a help needle or thread, k1tbl
36th round: continue with knitting the first 36 according to chart B and the last 32 in st st.
When completed chart B a second time (this will be round 44), switch to twisted rib pattern for 9 rounds. BO

Arrange the thumb gusset st. on 3 dpn, and knit twisted rib for 3 rounds. BO.

Finishing
Weave in all ends.

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Wednesday, November 29, 2006

Irie hat - free pattern

Directions in Danish and Dutch will be posted soon!




The inspiration for this hat comes from several places. What really got me going was Hildes butt cushion. See I have a 9-year old doing fingerknitting all of the time and producing strings, we didn’t know what to do with. Hildes site shows how fingerknit strings become great snakes of felt, when done in wool and put in the washing machine.

Also, on craftster I saw several people doing something with felted dreadlocks as extensions. Since I have nothing to ‘extend’ I put them on a hat. The result is not quite a wig, but rather a hat with a big and long and specific type of tassel. The hat is specifically designed to hold the bunch of dreadlocks.

Then, finally, you crafters all have seen the ways in which felted beads are embellished with embroidery, glass beads etc. You can go wild on dreadlocks too!

The hat is a ‘headhugger’ and I must admit that people with hair will have to use hairpins to keep it on, or make it so long it will cover the ears. Also people that are bald because of chemotherapy or who are freshly shaven will have to make the hat that long - the weight of the dreadlocks will simply drag a hat like you see in the picture off your head. The hat will stick to one-three day stubbs though - it works like velcro ;-) .


Here’s the directions:


1. make dreadlocks. I made mine from 100% wool yarn in two ways, which produces dreadlocks in two thicknesses. For the thick ones, you can do fingerknitting (or let your child do that!). See hildes website
for instructions.

The thin ones are crocheted. I can think of other ways to make dreadlocks although I haven’t tried it myself:
-from yarn: make a very loose braid, felt in the washing machine
On very thick needles: CO a number of st. that will get the length of the unfelted dreadlock, BO in the 2nd or 3rd needle.
-from roving: handfelt

5 thick and 2 thin dreadlocks will be a good bunch.

2. You can handpaint the dreadlocks and the yarn you’re gonna use for the hat - use Kool-Aid, Easter egg colouring or food colour. I used food colour from the ‘Dr. Oetker’ brand: Mix equal parts of food colouring and vinegar. Soak the dreadlock and yarn in water - plunch the colour on and kneed it through. Put in a Microwave save container and perform a series of 1 minute nuke and 2 minute rest until the liquid you can squeeze out of yarn and locks is clear.
Hand wash dreadlocks and yarn.

A tip: Use white and light grey yarn for the dreadlocks and paint them the same colour. You’ll get different shades.

3. Knit the hat:
Yarn: Worsted weight, 100% wool
Needles: set of 4/5 or two circulars 5mm (US nr. 8, UK/Can nr 6)

CO 66 st. The hat is knitted in a twisted-not twisted pattern:
1 round: *k1 tbl, p1* - repeat directions between *
2. round: *k1, p1* - repeat directions between *


Knit 25 rounds for a sculcap version, 31-35 ronds for a over-the-ear version, the last round being a twisted rib round.
Start decreasing:
1st round*k 2 tog, k 10 in rib pattern, k2 tog, k 8* repeat directions between * 3 times. (The decreases are all made with a k st as the first, which is knitted together with a p st.)
2nd round: knit all stitches in pattern (with the k st tbl,. You’ll find two k st. on the place where the decreases are)
3rd round: *k 2 tog, k 9, k2 tog, k7* repeat directions between * 3 times.
4th round: knit all stitches in pattern
5th round: *k 2 tog, k 8, k2 tog, k7* repeat directions between * 3 times
6th round: knit all stitches in pattern

continue in this fashion by decreasing every 2nd round on the exact place where the former decreases were (you’ll have one less st. between decreases for every 2nd round) until you have 12 st on your needle (this will be after you have decreased for the 9th time)

k 3 rounds in pattern
last decrease round: k 2 tog 6 times
k 2 rounds in pattern
BO

4. Finishing:

Stitch the dreadlocks firmly together first, then place them in the hole on the top of the head and attach them to it all the way round. Weave in ends.


You like what you see? post a comment! You made one? Direct me to your blog!

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